If you've noticed "LWG-certified leather" on a product page and wondered what it actually means, here's a straightforward answer. No greenwashing, no overclaiming — just what the certification is, what it covers, and why we think it matters.
What is the Leather Working Group?
The Leather Working Group (LWG) is a nonprofit organization founded in 2005 by a group of major brands — including Adidas, Clarks, Nike, Timberland, and Marks & Spencer — with the goal of creating a measurable standard for environmental performance in leather manufacturing.
Their core product is an audit standard for tanneries: the facilities where raw hides are processed into finished leather. Tanneries that meet the standard receive a certification at one of three levels — Bronze, Silver, or Gold — based on their score across a range of environmental criteria.
What does the LWG audit actually assess?
The audit is comprehensive and covers 17 categories of environmental performance. The main areas include:
Water management. Tanning is a water-intensive process. The audit assesses how much water a tannery uses, whether they have recycling systems in place, and how wastewater is treated before being released. Untreated tannery effluent is one of the more serious environmental problems in the leather industry — the LWG audit specifically targets this.
Energy use and emissions. The audit looks at energy consumption, sources of energy (including renewable), and the tannery's efforts to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.
Waste management. Solid waste, liquid waste, and air emissions are all assessed. The audit looks at how waste is handled, minimized, and disposed of responsibly.
Chemical management. The tanning process historically involved harsh chemicals, including chromium. The audit assesses what chemicals are in use, how they're stored and handled, and whether the tannery complies with Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs).
Traceability. The audit requires tanneries to be able to trace the hides they process back through their supply chain. This is designed to reduce the risk of leather being linked to deforestation or irresponsible cattle ranching.
What are the medal levels?
Tanneries that pass the audit receive one of three ratings:
- Bronze — minimum passing score (~65%)
- Silver — higher level of environmental performance (~75%+)
- Gold — highest level, representing industry best practice (~85%+)
A tannery can also be rated as Audited (meaning they passed but didn't achieve a medal rating) or fail the audit entirely.
The Whiskey Nappa leather used in several Fortress styles comes from a Silver-certified tannery. Our Olive leather comes from a fully traceable, LWG-certified source. We list the certification status on individual product pages where it applies.
What LWG certification doesn't cover
We think it's worth being honest about this, because not every brand is.
LWG is a tannery-level certification. It assesses environmental performance at the facility that processes leather — it doesn't extend to cattle ranches, slaughterhouses, or the broader supply chain upstream of the tannery. Traceability through those earlier stages of production is a much harder problem, and one the industry is still working toward.
The audit also doesn't assess worker safety or labor conditions in the same depth that it assesses environmental factors. The LWG's own FAQ states that worker safety is not the primary focus of the audit.
None of this makes LWG certification meaningless — tanneries are where some of the most significant environmental harms in leather production occur, and the audit genuinely raises the bar on water treatment, chemical management, and waste disposal. But it's one part of responsible sourcing, not the whole picture.
Why we use it — and what else we do
For Fortress, LWG certification is part of how we try to make sourcing decisions that we can stand behind. When we're choosing between leathers, LWG certification is a meaningful filter — it tells us the tannery has been independently audited and meets a real standard, not one we invented ourselves.
But we also go further where we can. Our shoemakers in Peru are a husband-and-wife-run atelier who we've worked with for years. We pay above living wage. We make shoes in small batches rather than large runs, which reduces overproduction. And we're working toward a fully traceable supply chain — not just at the tannery level, but beyond it.
We don't claim to have it all figured out. Responsible production is an ongoing process, not a box to check. But LWG certification is a meaningful starting point, and we'd rather be transparent about what it means than use it as a marketing line without explaining what's behind it.
What to look for when buying leather goods
If you're trying to make more considered choices about leather, here's a simple framework:
Look for LWG-certified leather — it's not the only thing that matters, but it's a concrete, independently verified indicator that the tannery has been audited on environmental performance.
Look for traceability information — brands that can tell you where their leather comes from (not just "Italy" or "Peru" but the specific tannery or source) are more likely to be taking supply chain responsibility seriously.
Consider longevity — the most sustainable leather shoe is one that lasts. A well-made pair of leather shoes worn for 5–10 years has a much lower impact than three pairs of cheaper shoes that fall apart in a year. Quality of construction matters.
Be skeptical of vague claims — "eco-friendly," "sustainable leather," and "responsibly sourced" without specific backing are marketing language, not certifications. Ask what's behind the claim.
Our leather
All Fortress shoes are made with full-grain nappa leather. Several of our leathers come from LWG-certified tanneries, and we list the certification status on product pages where it applies. If you have questions about a specific style, reach out at support@fortress.shoes — we're happy to share what we know.
